Peru Panorama

I am now back in Cuzco having just completed the awesome, demanding and quite magnificent Inca Trail yesterday!

The four day trek in the footsteps of the Incas towards The Lost City of the Incas began from the Sacred Valley floor in quite glorious sunshine.It was amazing to see the porters dashing up the mountains just after the first checkpoint, running ahead either to prepare lunch or set up our tents for the night. They were carrying heavy camping equipment and our camping bags while we merely carried our lightweight daypacks.Interestingly, whilst we all wore the latest hiking equipment, they had some simple sandals, shorts and t-shirts. Methinks we travellers overdo it somehow! So, I simply watched the porters in awe while I ate another snack.To end the first day and don´t ask me why(!), we played football against some of the porters on a earthy pitch some 3,000 metres up the mountains. Boy, what a place to play football and feel out of breath!

While the porters had all the energy, us travellers just about matched them and eventually ran out convincing winners after several games. The extra weight we packed in the bags they carried might have had something to do with it!

The second day was described as "intense" and intense it was! We hiked up from our campsite at 7am on the long steep path to Dead Woman’s Pass located 4,198 m (13,769 ft) above sea level. This was a massive lung-bursting effort!As we descended down the other side of the mountain the weather changed as a wet mist came in and our plastic ponchos promptly came out. It was very wet indeed.

The third day was another early start and the longest hike of the trail.We walked through some beautiful cloud forest with beautiful views of the Urubamba Valley below towards the highest point at 3,700 m (12,136 ft). The tour group were seemingly so focused.We eventually reached the ruins of Phuyupatamarca, or the 'Town above the Clouds' before walking down the mountain (some 3,000 steps!) towards another archeological site before camping just a short hike from Machu Picchu.
Before going for a few celebratory drinks in the campsite bar after the third day, we were strictly told by the tour guide not to tell any of the other tour groups that we were leaving at 4am to Machu Picchu the following morning. This would help ensure that we went through the checkpoint first and get to the Sun Gate for sunrise.

Thus, after several drinks with the other tour groups that evening we expressed our 'surprise' that they were leaving so early in the morning. After all, we weren't leaving until 5am... apparently! So the following morning and probably at the sacrifice of all our new found friendships they were all surprised to see us ahead of them at the checkpoint, first in line!

I wasn't so sure if the joke was on us or them as although we were first in line, we had got there an hour before anyone else and it was way too early in the morning!

The final hike began in total darkness from the checkpoint and as we walked towards the Sun Gate, the morning light began to appear through the heavy mist. However, once we arrived the mist was still thick and so we waited for mist to rise off the mountains with the rising sun, unveiling the first views of Machu Picchu in all its spectacular glory!Once Machu Picchu appeared bit by bit, it was truly amazing. The four day hike was worth it.Tomorrow we fly from Cuzco, high in the Andes, to Puerto Maldonado, deep in the lowlands of the Amazon jungle on another epic adventure!

Puno Lightning Strike

Peru, South America

Early on Friday morning, I flew out of New York at sunrise to Lima, Peru, on my first visit to South America.

The plane stopped off on the way at Bogota in Columbia and I managed to get a window seat for the second half of the journey, gladly so, as this bit was over the Amazon with views across the dense rainforest and muddy rivers.

Amazingly so, I arrived in Lima seven minutes after my friends had arrived from Heathrow! Great timing indeed! We got our transfer to our Lima hotel and the journey from the airport took us through the dusty, busy and colourful streets of Lima as well as the along Peru coastline whilst the sun set beautifully over the Pacific Ocean.It was great looking across the ocean in the direction of Fiji, one of the best places I have ever been to. So near, yet so far!At the hotel we met our tour group and had an introduction from the tour leader, then sampled some Peruvian beer over a nice meal in the main square of Lima.The next morning we had some time free so we checked out a bit more of Lima and then joined our tour group to fly across Peru to Juliaca in the south west near Bolivia.So our flight took us from sea level in Lima to a place 3,825 metres above sea level. This is the highest I´ve ever been and air is certainly thinner here! Moreover, we are going to stay at this altitude for the next week!

Our real destination here was Lake Titicaca so we headed to Puno for the night, a city next to the one of the highest lakes in the world and the largest in South America. We boarded a boat early on Sunday morning after being wizzed through Puno down to the port on taxi-tricycles!Our boat took us to a few islands and one of which we spent the night at with no cars, limited electricity and any of the modern pleasures all of us have taken for granted. This is certainly not New York. Talk about one extreme to the other!

If that wasn´t enough, we also dressed up in traditional Peruvian dress (me with a poncho!) and had a bit of a party with the locals in the village hall!In all my life I have never seen a night sky as good as last night, we saw stars that we had never seen before and even the clearly outlined milky way, which is a bit more distinctive in the remote parts of the world!

This morning we returned back to Puno via the floating islands of Lake Titicaca where a whole community live on islands made of floating reeds. This has to be one of the most amazing things I have seen and it was great spending part of this morning on one of the islands with the inhabitants and their colourful clothing.Tomorrow we head for Cusco, just before we head on the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, one of the new seven modern wonders of the world.

Read all about it here!

Guest article: Charlie's report of New York!

What can I say of New York. They call it the big apple. I say it's the big pineapple, banana and melon, all rolled into one. Massive, and fruity.

A virgin to America, I travelled with hope, a tear in my eye, and luckily, a passport. Otherwise I'd never have got in. I was also lucky on the way over, because I managed to pick up an attractive blonde lady on the flight. My, this trip was turning out well.

The taxi driver who picked us up from the airport insisted on talking about Mido, the Egyptian footballer. This was because the driver was Egyptian himself. He then suggested that I pay him 60 pounds rather than 60 dollars. I wasn't falling for that one. I considered docking him his tip, but decided I didn't want to start my holiday with a fight in the street, and hey, since this was America he might even have a handgun. So I paid him a few dollars for his time. Big tipping culture. I was going to have to get used to this.

Adriano, my newly 'made' brother, has a mafia funded apartment near Times Square. He said it was paid for by the 'company' but I know what he really means. Gangsters. My suspicions were confirmed on the first night, when he took us to a Mafia-owned Jazz venue. Amazingly, we were given a table in the front row, even though the venue was packed. I didn't see a secret handshake, but I saw the grin on Adriano's face. We drank like gangsters too, whiskey on the rocks and Hayride cocktails. And a big bloody steak to beef us up. This was the high life.

During the days we hit the streets, walking through the neighbourhoods as Adriano picked up protection money. We hung out in 'Angelique', - his favourite mafia-owned cafe - for strong coffees and even had cupcakes at 'Magnolia Bakery.' Bleeker Street saw guitarists who weren't quite as good as Bruce Springteen try to impress us. Adriano lifted his hand to his jacket pocket as if he might have a gun, and suddenly they improved. King of New York.

Times Square at night was a mixture of dark and very very light. Dazzling. Adverts for new films that weren't coming out until we left. So we saw stand-up comedy, some two bit jokers who loved New York but didn't have much money to show for their toils. One guy who had been voted smartest man in America by Readers Digest, but walked off stage after five minutes without a single tittle, giggle or smirk from the audience. The rest made us laugh, some more than others.

By then, the blonde had left, caught an early flight back to the Queens land, olde England and it's greenery, in stark contrast to the monolithic skyscrapers which were causing me serious awe. I'd romanced her in Central Park, a small little place called Tavern on the Green with chandaliers and fussy waiters, and most importantly, king prawns. Better than that was the diner we went to on the second day, Eggs Benedict and Pancakes with Maple Syrup. I'm drooling now just thinking about it.

Chinatown on the final night, and we just about managed to avoid the Triads. The air was cold but the king prawns in black bean sauce was hot, and the dumplings were steaming. I hadn't had a chinese like this since I was in, well, China.

I woke up and saw New York in the snow. Slush at my feet, salt being scattered by shopkeepers onto the sidewalk. Statues that looked like they had mohican style haircuts because of how the white flakes had landed. My last day. Teenagers who worked in a surf shop built a snowman and attracted the congratulations of passers by. I sheltered in the cinema and watched a film about a pregnant 16 year old which ended up winning no Oscars at all.

Then I flew home, already missing the city and it's Brooklyn Bridge, the majestic view from the Rock, the Empire State, the top of it disappearing into a cloud. The old woman who fed the birds in Greenwich Village. The Irish barmen and their Long Island Iced Tea cocktail which was a little too strong. Adriano's amazing apartment with wooden floor and two flat screen tellys. I missed it all.

I arrived with a tear in my eye, and I left knowing that one day I'd be back to enjoy it all over again.

By Charlie Swinbourne

Charlie's photos

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Cocktails, Capers & Glee

Late a week last Friday night, Swinbourne senior and girlfriend Jo, arrived in the US for a week. It was senior's first steps on the American continent. He was excited, enthusiastically gleeful, and just couldn't help but skip his first steps down the sidewalk!We went about New York in style, going straight to Greenwich Village for a Saturday morning coffee at Cafe Angelique, my coffee house of choice. It's New York exquisite.Continuing on that theme, we checked out Magnolia Cafe a few doors down for some rather divine cupcakes as seen on Sex in the City! After that, we strolled (while Charlie continued to skip!) through Soho, down to the Financial District and Ground Zero before walking over the Brooklyn Bridge into Brooklyn. Quite the tour!Later that night, we splashed out and went to the Jazz Standard for food, jazz and drinks. After a couple of drinks, we couldn’t really believe we were there, or anywhere!As the drinks dried up, things began to make slightly more sense. We were back to our normal sensical selves. But it wasn't even half as much fun.In fact, Charlie seemed confused, with everything. He was now Robert DeNiro and quite the convincing Taxi Driver.The rest of New York followed thereafter, with the two exploring New York for themselves while yours truly went back to the day job!We did however manage to fit in more entertainment, a comedy night, a visit to Chinatown as well digging into some Ethiopian food, quite literally with hands and all! Quite an experience!!!

It was great to see them both.

The real McCoy

The visit of Mr. B. Knighton was the perfect opportunity to check out and uncover the real New York. The type of places that a true New Yorker would be seen. We were in search of the genuine article, even if slightly rough on the edges, the very real and rustic McCoy.We began by covering some of the unmissable tourist spots and we had the fortune of a clear night sky and an beautifully lit Empire State Building to see from the Top of the Rock.After that, we began to take a more credible bite out of the Big Apple, sampling some Manhattan jazz, Brooklyn ale and some more awesome sand-shrewn shuffleboard in Greenwich Village.On Friday evening after work I met Knighton at the very cool Shake Shack, an outdoor cafe in Madison Square Park, warmed by some gas burners and a clear view of the ever present Empire State Building.This was followed by a visit to Madison Square Garden to watch the Knicks in full flow only to lose to San Antonio Spurs after the away opponents went level in the dying Hollywood-style seconds of the game to force extra time, and go on to win the match.Scribbled local tips from a colleague were followed up throughout the weekend with a lunchtime visit to Grimaldi in Brooklyn to sample the best pizza in New York, if not the whole continent. You can always tell that a place is good when there is a sizeable queue outside just before opening time!We had a coffee stop in Brooklyn before having a leisurely walk back to Manhattan over Brooklyn Bridge.The now trusted scribbles were followed up with an evening visit to East Village for some Latin American food and cocktails at Paladar.Sunday began with lunch at a typical American diner in Union Square and the rest of the day was thereafter punctuated with coffee stops, more clothes browsing around Mulberry and even some snow!It was the real McCoy.

Chinatown Football Tournament

Having not played the beautiful game for a few weeks I was in need of some action and so I signed up with Brooklyn Union for a seven-a-side football tournament last Sunday.We played on an artificial grass pitch down in Chinatown in lower east side Manhattan. I played in two games, and scored two goals. It was good to have a run out and get some goals again!!!

But we got knocked out in the semi final just when it was beginning to get serious.

Later that evening I watched my first Super Bowl with a colleague and friends and watched the New York Giants win in what has been described as possibly one of the best finals ever!

It was a great comeback. The stuff of legend.