Monday 10 March 2008

Peru Panorama

I am now back in Cuzco having just completed the awesome, demanding and quite magnificent Inca Trail yesterday!

The four day trek in the footsteps of the Incas towards The Lost City of the Incas began from the Sacred Valley floor in quite glorious sunshine.It was amazing to see the porters dashing up the mountains just after the first checkpoint, running ahead either to prepare lunch or set up our tents for the night. They were carrying heavy camping equipment and our camping bags while we merely carried our lightweight daypacks.Interestingly, whilst we all wore the latest hiking equipment, they had some simple sandals, shorts and t-shirts. Methinks we travellers overdo it somehow! So, I simply watched the porters in awe while I ate another snack.To end the first day and don´t ask me why(!), we played football against some of the porters on a earthy pitch some 3,000 metres up the mountains. Boy, what a place to play football and feel out of breath!

While the porters had all the energy, us travellers just about matched them and eventually ran out convincing winners after several games. The extra weight we packed in the bags they carried might have had something to do with it!

The second day was described as "intense" and intense it was! We hiked up from our campsite at 7am on the long steep path to Dead Woman’s Pass located 4,198 m (13,769 ft) above sea level. This was a massive lung-bursting effort!As we descended down the other side of the mountain the weather changed as a wet mist came in and our plastic ponchos promptly came out. It was very wet indeed.

The third day was another early start and the longest hike of the trail.We walked through some beautiful cloud forest with beautiful views of the Urubamba Valley below towards the highest point at 3,700 m (12,136 ft). The tour group were seemingly so focused.We eventually reached the ruins of Phuyupatamarca, or the 'Town above the Clouds' before walking down the mountain (some 3,000 steps!) towards another archeological site before camping just a short hike from Machu Picchu.
Before going for a few celebratory drinks in the campsite bar after the third day, we were strictly told by the tour guide not to tell any of the other tour groups that we were leaving at 4am to Machu Picchu the following morning. This would help ensure that we went through the checkpoint first and get to the Sun Gate for sunrise.

Thus, after several drinks with the other tour groups that evening we expressed our 'surprise' that they were leaving so early in the morning. After all, we weren't leaving until 5am... apparently! So the following morning and probably at the sacrifice of all our new found friendships they were all surprised to see us ahead of them at the checkpoint, first in line!

I wasn't so sure if the joke was on us or them as although we were first in line, we had got there an hour before anyone else and it was way too early in the morning!

The final hike began in total darkness from the checkpoint and as we walked towards the Sun Gate, the morning light began to appear through the heavy mist. However, once we arrived the mist was still thick and so we waited for mist to rise off the mountains with the rising sun, unveiling the first views of Machu Picchu in all its spectacular glory!Once Machu Picchu appeared bit by bit, it was truly amazing. The four day hike was worth it.Tomorrow we fly from Cuzco, high in the Andes, to Puerto Maldonado, deep in the lowlands of the Amazon jungle on another epic adventure!

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