Tuesday 25 March 2008

Manhattan Finale

After a whirlwind love affair since last October, a week spent here and there, moving into an apartment in early January. It's almost over.

So, after three months spent living in the centre of Manhattan with a 10001 zip code, this guy is moving on.

Chicago beckons. I've heard so many good things about the city and interestingly most people seem to prefer the place over New York. It's just that the thought of moving on is so painful. Real painful.Since returning from Peru I've been retracing my well worn footsteps heading up to Central Park, getting a latte from Café Anglique, going out on Rivington in Lower East Side, going to Union Square and Fifth Avenue as well as sampling the lights of Times Square.It's almost the end of an era, but I'll be back.

Fond Farewell










Monday 24 March 2008

Thursday 20 March 2008

Monday 17 March 2008

Sunday 16 March 2008

The Amazon

One of the highlights of the Peru trip was a two night expedition into the Amazon rainforest. Aside from the trees and the classic muddy rivers, the main scenery was the creatures. And boy, there were quite a few!We started off by taking a flight from the high altitude city of Cuzco down to the Amazon basin where it was humid and warm. Actually, being at altitude wasn't so bad!From there, the tour group jumped onto a motorised canoe boat and burned it up the muddy waters of the Amazon delta. Along the way we had some lunch and what better than a serving of rice and vegetables in a banana leaf!As everything was pretty much disposable we threw off the remainder off the side of the boat. Probably for the piranhas to chew or something.After a couple of hours burning it up the muddy river and tackling a heavy rainstorm along the way we finally arrived at our destination and hopped off the boat.From there we walked through the jungle and came across our lodge. It even had a bar.But the entire lodge didn't have any glass windows. None whatsoever. This was just an open plan lodge. And pretty though it was, we were in the jungle and so seeing a tropical creature of some sort was evidently likely.

And so indeed as I walked quite at ease from my jungle lodge room along the raised platform towards the dining area something began slipping down my trousers. At first I thought it was my wallet, but then... this was the Amazon... I immediately froze in my tracks and nervously shined my torch down to discover a placid looking Amazonian frog staring at me sheepishly next to my shoe. Whoa boy.

Even our room with its lovely hammock faced the amphitheatre of the jungle like a giant speaker attached to our room. The monkey squeals weren't so bad, but the insects... well lets just say there is around 30 million. Chop down the Amazon I say.Luckily there was a mozzie net and so I doubly made sure that this was securely fastened around the entire bed. I wasn’t scared at all. I was just taking precautions. I even checked for any miscellaneous creatures lurking in the bed just before tucking myself in for the night to the sound of the droning hum and energetic buzzing of the jungle, followed by a reassuring squealing crescendo.

The following day in the safety of the daylight we did a bit of macaw and toucan spotting and sampled lots of different types of perfectly ripe fruit. This was washed down with some sugar cane and sugary it was! We also checked out termites. They tasted peppery.After doing a spot of piranha fishing in the late afternoon, we had the option to check out some caimans (a small type of alligator) at night on the river. So we headed back through the jungle down to the boat armed with just our torches. I wasn't sure whether the spectacle was the caimans or all the creatures we saw along the way. Either way most of the creatures were clearly nocturnal!

Visiting the Amazon is something that I have always wanted to do and it lived up to all my expectations. The creatures weren't all that bad!

It was certainly one of the highlights of the trip.

Saturday 15 March 2008

Razor Blade

The intrepid explorer of yesteryear was back for a two week period only. And this time, he grew a beard.

After undergoing the daily rigour of shaving for a few years now, with a few painful nicks here and there along the way. I wanted a change. I didn't want this mindless pain, day after day.

Buying a razor blade has never been more complicated. Just take your pick... Mach3, Mach3Turbo, Quattro, cut-throat, electric, dry, wet... complicatedMachQuattro indeed.

Lazer surgery and waxing was obviously out of the question too. However, ditching the razor altogether was justifiable. It was time for a shaving break of freedom.To begin with, stubble appeared and then slowly but surely, the beard began to grow like never before. The beard was beginning to make the most its new found freedom in the absence of the not-so humble razor blade.But no matter how much I laughed I knew I wasn't going to win the tour group beard competition for there was one outstanding competitor who just couldn't be beaten on this two week trip!Maybe next time eh.

Meanwhile back in New York, a two-blade razor lingers patiently in the bathroom. It'll be used when I can pluck up the courage to undo two weeks of hard work. I just don't know when, but one thing is for sure, work should be interesting on Monday!

Monday 10 March 2008

Peru Panorama

I am now back in Cuzco having just completed the awesome, demanding and quite magnificent Inca Trail yesterday!

The four day trek in the footsteps of the Incas towards The Lost City of the Incas began from the Sacred Valley floor in quite glorious sunshine.It was amazing to see the porters dashing up the mountains just after the first checkpoint, running ahead either to prepare lunch or set up our tents for the night. They were carrying heavy camping equipment and our camping bags while we merely carried our lightweight daypacks.Interestingly, whilst we all wore the latest hiking equipment, they had some simple sandals, shorts and t-shirts. Methinks we travellers overdo it somehow! So, I simply watched the porters in awe while I ate another snack.To end the first day and don´t ask me why(!), we played football against some of the porters on a earthy pitch some 3,000 metres up the mountains. Boy, what a place to play football and feel out of breath!

While the porters had all the energy, us travellers just about matched them and eventually ran out convincing winners after several games. The extra weight we packed in the bags they carried might have had something to do with it!

The second day was described as "intense" and intense it was! We hiked up from our campsite at 7am on the long steep path to Dead Woman’s Pass located 4,198 m (13,769 ft) above sea level. This was a massive lung-bursting effort!As we descended down the other side of the mountain the weather changed as a wet mist came in and our plastic ponchos promptly came out. It was very wet indeed.

The third day was another early start and the longest hike of the trail.We walked through some beautiful cloud forest with beautiful views of the Urubamba Valley below towards the highest point at 3,700 m (12,136 ft). The tour group were seemingly so focused.We eventually reached the ruins of Phuyupatamarca, or the 'Town above the Clouds' before walking down the mountain (some 3,000 steps!) towards another archeological site before camping just a short hike from Machu Picchu.
Before going for a few celebratory drinks in the campsite bar after the third day, we were strictly told by the tour guide not to tell any of the other tour groups that we were leaving at 4am to Machu Picchu the following morning. This would help ensure that we went through the checkpoint first and get to the Sun Gate for sunrise.

Thus, after several drinks with the other tour groups that evening we expressed our 'surprise' that they were leaving so early in the morning. After all, we weren't leaving until 5am... apparently! So the following morning and probably at the sacrifice of all our new found friendships they were all surprised to see us ahead of them at the checkpoint, first in line!

I wasn't so sure if the joke was on us or them as although we were first in line, we had got there an hour before anyone else and it was way too early in the morning!

The final hike began in total darkness from the checkpoint and as we walked towards the Sun Gate, the morning light began to appear through the heavy mist. However, once we arrived the mist was still thick and so we waited for mist to rise off the mountains with the rising sun, unveiling the first views of Machu Picchu in all its spectacular glory!Once Machu Picchu appeared bit by bit, it was truly amazing. The four day hike was worth it.Tomorrow we fly from Cuzco, high in the Andes, to Puerto Maldonado, deep in the lowlands of the Amazon jungle on another epic adventure!